Fort Leavenworth truly is a place filled with history and loyal service.  It served through the Civil War, World Wars I and II, Vietnam, Korea, and Desert Storm.  It has also served well during our current encounter in Iraq.  Yet, many people are not well informed of its wonders.
     Having served one hundred seventy-six years of duty to the United States, Fort Leavenworth is the oldest active Army post west of the Mississippi River.  The fort was established in 1827 by Colonel Henry Leavenworth, along with the Third Infantry Regiment from Saint Louis, Missouri.  The colonel gave his name to the county, fort, city, and the cemetery.  Being one of the only forts on the west side of the river, it was a major stop for many passersby heading east as well as west.
     For the same reasons, Leavenworth was also the chief base of operations for thirty years on the plains.  Its soldiers protected wagon trains heading west to forts and land all of the way to the Pacific Ocean. It was also the first capital of the Kansas Territory.
     Today, Fort Leavenworth is home to many tributes to its soldiers.  Among the most well-known ones, are the monuments tributed to the Ninth and Tenth Cavalry Regiment Buffalo Soldiers, as well as the monument of Ulysses S. Grant.  Through the efforts of then post commander Colonel Nelson A. Miles, the latter was erected in 1889, and was sculpted by Lorado Taft.

The memorial consists of the statue, a waterfall, and a public viewing area.

     Another, is a tribute to the fallen soldiers from this post, known as Fort Leavenworth National Cemetery,  Among the first of twelve national cemeteries dedicated by Abraham Lincoln, it was dedicated on July 17, 1862.  The original burial ground was plotted in 1827, on the southeastern corner of the post.  It was abandoned in 1860, and all of the bodies were removed to the new cemetery described above.  Colonel Henry Leavenworth himself is buried there today.
     Another interesting aspect of the fort, is the United States Army Command and General Staff College (USACGSC).  This school was founded in 1881 by General William Tecumseh Sherman, who fought in the Civil War.  This institution has produced such alumni as Omar N. Bradley, George S. Patton, Dwight D. Eisenhower, and Douglas MacArthur.  It also produced our current Secretary of State, Colin Powell.  The college's use was first tested in World War I, and it was obviously very useful, as it is still in operation today.
     Fort Leavenworth and the word "prison" have practically become a synonym in recent years.  Fort Leavenworth has four prisons in the area, and although none of the facilities allow public tours, you can still get an interesting look at these famous and, at times, mysterious structures.
     The first of these prisons is the United States Disciplinary Barracks (USDB).  Originally called the United States Military Prison, it was established by Congress in 1874.  It has been in operation since May 15, 1875, and holds criminals from all of the branches of the military.  Also, although there is still the death penalty there, the last hanging was the execution of Private John A. Bennet in April of 1961.  A new USDB was completed in 2002.  Having only five hundred twenty on beds, it is smaller than the original Disciplinary Barracks.  It currently has a total of 626 inmates in its custody. 

The original United States Disciplinary Barracks on post.

     Perhaps the most famous prison on or near the fort is the United States Federal Penitentiary, or Leavenworth Federal Penitentiary.  It is also known as simply "The Big House".  Permission was granted by a special act of Congress to build the penitentiary in 1897.  Built by labor from the United States Disciplinary Barracks,  the facility took eleven years to finish.  Its first cell house was opened in 1906, and is currently the largest maximum security prison in the country.  The Leavenworth Federal Penitentiary has also had many famous prisoners such as Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly, and the Birdman of Alcatraz, Robert Stroud.  Today, this prison holds 2,207 prisoners.  Contrary to the United States Disciplinary Barracks, this building is for civilian criminals only. Also, because of the maximum security, the walls are forty feet below and above ground.

"The Big House" as seen from an aerial view.

     Another famous prison is Lansing Correctional Facility, or Kansas State Penitentiary.  It houses 2,489 inmates, and with that number, it is the larges state of Kansas prison for minimum, medium, and maximum security criminals.  Along with the fact that it has 531 armed corrections officers, what makes this particular prison interesting is the fact that it is the sight of the Truman Capote book In Cold Blood, as well as the motion picture of the same name.  The fort also contains one other prison with 650 prisoners, but it is privately run.  Altogether, the Leavenworth prisons hold a total of 5,972 inmates, and the prisons are a big part of what makes Fort Leavenworth very special.
     This military post is also very rich in Indian history.  The Kansa, Osage, and Delaware Indians lived where Fort Leavenworth and Leavenworth now stand on the western bluffs of the Missouri River.  Many of its streets were named after ethnic Indian tribes from the area as well.
     As for Colonel Henry Leavenworth, he was in the middle of commanding a conflict with the Pawnee Indians on July 21, 1834.  He came down with a violent fever and died within three to four hours, only four days away from being promoted to brigadier general.  He died in his wagon bed in the middle of the open prairie.  In 1902, his family gave permission to have his remains moved to the national cemetery on the fort.
     "I am a soldier, I fight where I am sent, and when I fight, I fight to win.  I am proud to bring freedom to people of oppressed countries;  I am proud that the army has given me physical and mental strength.  Fort Leavenworth provides much history: pre-Civil War, Civil War, Buffalo Soldiers, and officer training school," said one sergeant of his post at Fort Leavenworth.
     Listening to his confidence, Fort Leavenworth must be a remarkable place to serve your country and to live.  Even though it has been described to you, you have to see its picturesque streets, parks, and buildings to appreciate its wonders.

Jeff Miller

8th American History

Rossville Junior High

Plains History Project

2004

Bibliography

Revised: February 05, 2004 .